Amigurumi & Animal Knitting Patterns

Knitted amigurumi, not crocheted

Amigurumi began as a crochet tradition, but knitted versions have their own advantages and this collection is built around them. Knitted fabric is smoother and more elastic than crochet, so a knitted animal has a softer, rounder surface with no visible stitch bumps, which suits sleek creatures like foxes, penguins and fish. The catch is that knitting is more open than crochet at the same yarn weight, so tension has to be tighter to keep the stuffing hidden. Most designs here are worked in the round on double-pointed needles, with a few knitted flat and seamed.

What you can make

• Woodland and wild animals: sleepy foxes, giraffes, penguins and penguin families.
• Characters: a substantial run of Pokemon-style toys including Pikachu, Eevee, Jigglypuff and the starter trio.
• Small and quick: tiny animals and pocket-sized amigurumi that use metres rather than balls.
• Playful oddities: knitted monsters, cheeseburgers and food toys for something less conventional.
• Classic soft toys: bunnies and bears designed to be cuddled rather than displayed.

Needles, tension and the fabric you need

Go down two or even three needle sizes from what the ball band suggests. A DK yarn that normally wants 4mm is typically knitted on 3mm or 2.75mm for a toy. Hold the swatch up to a window: if you can see light through it, the polyester filling will eventually show through as grey shadows. Double-pointed needles in short lengths are easiest for small bodies and limbs, and magic loop on a long circular works equally well if you prefer it. A set of stitch markers, a blunt darning needle and a chopstick or knitting needle for pushing stuffing into narrow legs complete the kit.

Shaping, faces and assembly

Most animals are built from spheres and tubes. Bodies begin with a small cast-on, increase evenly to the widest point, work straight, then decrease to close. The techniques worth practising are even increases spaced around the round, which keeps the sphere symmetrical, and short rows, which is how a muzzle or a beak gets its angle. Faces make the toy: place the eyes lower and wider than instinct suggests, since high, close-set eyes read as unfriendly. Embroider the features for babies and toddlers rather than using safety eyes. Pin every limb on with the toy sitting upright, look at it from a distance, and only then sew, because a leg that is two rows too high is obvious once it is stitched down.

Stuffing, ends and durability

Stuff in small pieces, teasing the filling apart first so no lumps form, and fill the head firmly enough that the face does not crumple. Under-stuffing is the more common fault by far. Weave ends inside the body before closing rather than on the surface. Attach limbs and ears by sewing twice through the same stitches with the project yarn, as toys are pulled by their extremities. If the toy is for a child, avoid loose novelty yarns and anything with long fibres that can be chewed off.

Amigurumi knitting questions

Can you knit amigurumi rather than crochet it? Yes. Knitted amigurumi gives a smoother fabric, worked tightly in the round on small needles.

Are there free animal knitting patterns here? Yes, free downloadable PDF patterns for animals and tiny toys are included.

What needle size should I use? Two or three sizes smaller than the ball band recommends, so the fabric is dense enough to hide stuffing.

How much yarn does a knitted animal take? Small toys often need only oddments, making them ideal for using up leftovers.

Are these toys safe for babies? Embroider eyes and noses instead of using safety eyes or buttons, and sew every part on very securely.