Swinford

Swinford Classic Fitted Tweedy Jacket by Judy Furlong

What is Being Made

The Swinford is a classic, fitted tweedy jacket designed by Judy Furlong and originally published in The Knitter, Issue 51 (November 2012). This sophisticated knitted garment features a tailored silhouette with set-in sleeves, patch pockets, and distinctive lace detail edging on the collar and cuffs. The jacket is available in multiple sizes to suit bust measurements from 82 cm to 128 cm (approximately 32 to 50 inches), making it adaptable for a range of body types. The fitted construction requires careful attention to actual measurements before selecting your size.

Techniques Used

This advanced-level knitting project employs several key techniques that contribute to its polished, professional appearance. The primary stitch pattern used is the Knot Stitch, which creates the characteristic tweedy texture throughout the main body of the jacket. Judy Furlong notes that while the Knot Stitch itself is straightforward to execute, the most challenging aspect involves accurate row counting, which is most easily managed by working from the wrong side of the fabric.

The jacket incorporates set-in sleeves, a construction method that requires shaping at the armhole and sleeve cap for a fitted, tailored look. Patch pockets are added as functional design elements. The optional lace edging on the collar and cuffs introduces additional complexity to the construction process. For the cuff lace edges, the pattern provides two methods: the primary technique involves casting on and off with waste yarn, then grafting the edges together for a seamless finish; alternatively, knitters may cast on and off directly in the main yarn and sew the edges together if preferred.

Stitches Used

• Knot Stitch – The primary stitch pattern that creates the tweedy texture throughout the jacket body
• Lace stitches – Used for the optional decorative edging on the collar and cuffs, adding visual interest and refinement
• Grafting – Employed to join lace edges together seamlessly when using the waste yarn method
• Standard knitting stitches – Including cast-on, cast-off, and basic shaping techniques for constructing the main garment pieces

Materials

The Swinford pattern is designed to work with Aran and DK weight yarns. The original inspiration came from yarn sourced from New Lanark Mills, which provides the tweedy aesthetic characteristic of this design. The yarn choice is crucial to achieving the intended look and drape of the finished jacket. Knitters will require appropriate needles for their selected yarn weight to ensure proper gauge and fabric structure.

The pattern accommodates both standard knitting needles and offers flexibility in finishing techniques, allowing knitters to choose between waste yarn and grafting methods or traditional casting and sewing approaches based on their skill level and preference.