Wickeljacke in Schachenmayr Extra Soft Merino Color - 2002 - Downloadable PDF

Wickeljacke in Schachenmayr Extra Soft Merino Color – Free Knitting Pattern (PDF Download)

This free downloadable PDF pattern from Schachenmayr guides knitters through the construction of a classic wrap jacket (Wickeljacke) — a timeless, versatile garment that wraps and ties at the front, flattering a wide range of body shapes. The pattern is worked in the brand's SMC Select Extra Soft Merino Color yarn, a DK-weight yarn celebrated for its softness and its gently variegated, self-striping color effects that add visual interest without requiring any complex colorwork techniques.

Garment Overview

The pattern produces a wrap-style jacket with a relaxed, elegant silhouette. The wrap front creates a natural V-neckline, and the design is sized across five sizes, ranging from the smallest to the largest, with all size-specific stitch counts listed consecutively and separated by hyphens throughout the instructions. Where only one figure is given, it applies to all sizes.

Construction Method

The jacket is worked in separate pieces — the back (Rückenteil) is explicitly described in the pattern, with front panels and sleeves implied by the garment type. Each piece is worked flat, back and forth in rows, and then seamed together. This is a traditional, beginner-friendly construction approach that keeps shaping straightforward and manageable.

• Back piece: Cast on 95–103–111–123–135 stitches and begin with a ribbed border section in Bündchenmuster (rib stitch) for approximately 6 cm.
• After the ribbed hem, the work continues in Glatt rechts (stockinette stitch) for the body of the garment.
• Armhole shaping begins at a height of 35–35–34–33–32 cm, with stitches cast off in a stepped sequence on both sides to create a smooth, tailored armhole curve.
• Shoulder shaping begins at a height of 53–54–54–55–55 cm, again worked with stepped bind-offs on both sides to create angled shoulder seams for a better fit.

Stitches and Techniques Used

• Bündchenmuster (Rib Stitch): Worked by alternating 1 stitch knit, 1 stitch purl across the row. This elastic stitch pattern is used for the cuffs and hem borders, providing stretch and a neat, structured edge that lies flat without curling.
• Glatt rechts (Stockinette Stitch): The main body fabric, created by knitting all stitches on right-side rows and purling all stitches on wrong-side rows. Stockinette produces a smooth, classic fabric that showcases the color gradients of the Extra Soft Merino Color yarn beautifully.
• Armhole Shaping (Armausschnitte): Worked using stepped bind-offs — casting off a larger group of stitches once, followed by smaller decreases every second row, creating a curved armhole edge.
• Shoulder Shaping (Schulterschrägungen): Achieved through a series of stepped bind-offs worked on both sides simultaneously, with size-specific stitch counts ensuring a properly angled shoulder line for each size.
• Edge Stitches (Randmaschen): Selvedge stitches are worked at each end of the rows to create clean, stable edges that are easier to seam.

Materials and Tools

• Yarn: Schachenmayr SMC Select Extra Soft Merino Color — a DK-weight yarn with a soft merino fiber content and a self-striping, multicolor dye effect.
• Needles for ribbing: Size 3–3.5 mm knitting needles, used for the Bündchenmuster border sections to keep the ribbing firm and elastic.
• Needles for main body: Size 3.5–4 mm knitting needles, used for the stockinette sections of the jacket.